City Unexpected

2012-05-27 0 notes

Three Treasures of Taiwan — Celebrity, Fraud, All-You-Can-Eat.
台灣有三寶——名流、詐騙、吃到飽。

— 《國士無雙》電影，導演陳映蓉，編劇傅睿邨，2006。
Catch (motion picture), Directed by Chen Yin-jung, Written by Rady Fu, 2006.

What really happened in 1993? It’s perhaps a mediocre year for many of us. I was 16, second year into high school. It could be very important, or just nothing. It’s not a time that’s both the best and worst. It’s just a year for another young kid for something seemingly nothing to happen for the coming-of-age. That’s a year, however, where many things start and end, reveal and conclude, for my intellectual being, that kind of importance. It just took me another 18 years to understand it, with a trip in central Europe.

一九九三年發生了什麼？對許多人來說，那或許是個不怎樣的一年。我十六歲，高中第二年。可以說是很重要，或其實沒什麼。那並不是一個既是最好也是最壞的時候。也只不過是一個小孩子成長歷程裡看似不起眼的另外一年而已。不過，對我來說，很多事情在那個時候起了個頭，或者其實根本就決定了。對於我自己的智識歷程來說正是如此。然而，這卻花了十八年的時間，加上一趟歐洲之旅，才讓我自己可以清楚理解。

Dresden
德勒斯登

2012-04-20 0 notes

Piano in Carnegie Hall 卡內基音樂廳的鋼琴

It took me a while to understand why he sounded weird that night. Because the piano he used is not the one in Carnegie Hall.

花了一些時間，我才了解到那天他的琴音何以那麼奇怪。因為他用的鋼琴不是卡內基音樂廳的那台。

The sound of the solo piano jazz concert of Keith Jarrett earlier this month is crisp and simple. Straightforward, too. That’s a Steinway. Jarrett joked about piano several times during the concert. It’s not the piano he expected to play. There was the other one, which has a softer, muffled sound, for him in his previous two times of solo here in the Chicago Symphony Center. He covered his mouth with a hand while speaking to mimic how it sounds, and everybody laughed. He once asked staff why it sounds so muffled. Somebody told him, “They paly Mozart on it.”

這個月稍早Keith Jarrett的爵士鋼琴獨奏會，聲音清脆簡單。直接了當，也可以這樣說。鋼琴是史坦威鋼琴。音樂會裡Jarrett開了幾次鋼琴的玩笑。這不是他以為他會彈到的琴。另外還有一台，聲音比較軟，像是蒙了塊布一樣，是他前兩次在芝加哥交響中心音樂廳彈獨奏時用的。他還一邊講話一邊用手蒙著嘴巴模仿那個琴的音色。然後大家都笑了。他曾經問工作人員何以那台鋼琴的聲音那麼像是中間隔了什麼東西一樣。有人跟他說：「他們用它來彈莫札特。」

2012-03-03 0 notes

The End of an Era and Color Language of Photography 一個時代的結束，以及攝影的色彩語言

The end of an era for photography. Kodak discontinued its color reversal films.

一個時代結束了。柯達決定停產正片。

I was felling sentimental for people using Kodak’s Tri-X film to get prize in 1942 just two days ago. And yesterday I heard the shocking terrible news — Kodak announced to discontinue all its color reversal films, which means its official exit from this market.

前兩天才在感嘆有人1942年在用柯達Tri-X底片得獎的事情。昨天就傳出如五雷轟頂般的壞消息，柯達要停掉所有正片底片，正式退出正片市場了。

2012-02-26 0 notes

These texts are merely an institution established upon some accords reached by the stakeholders; only being within the structure of the institution, can we be capable and qualified to give critique on these texts; it’s nearly impossible to critique them as independent pieces of work. Plainly speaking, who live in this institution would take it for granted, who don’t would not be capable of understanding at all, it’s that kind of world. And, with extremely huge market scale and with very crude quality, it’s an unbelievably distorted world.

—

On “Institutional Language”, (most, but not all, of, lyrics of J Pop music, lines of TV series, or news stories of national newspaper).

English translation from Chinese by City Unexpected.

村上春樹，2008。劉名揚（譯）。《給我搖擺，其餘免談》（意味がなければスイングはない），169頁。台北：時報文化。

Haruki Murakami, 2008. Min-Yang Liu (tr.). It Don’t Mean a Thing, If It Ain’t Got That Swing (意味がなければスイングはない, Complex Chinese Edition), p. 169. Taipei: China Times.

0 notes

這些文字不過是關係者之間達成某種協議後所建立的一種制度，唯有身處這種制度的架構內，才有辦法、有資格對這些文字做批評；若要將它們當成獨立的作品批評，是幾乎不可能的。說得更明白點，這是個對活在這制度內的人眼裡一切都是理所當然、沒活在這制度內的人則完全無法理解的世界。而且是個市場規模雖極為龐大，但品質卻十分鄉土、扭曲得教人難以想像的世界。

—

論「制度語言」（J Pop音樂歌詞、連續劇台詞、全國性報紙報導，之中的大部分）。

村上春樹，2008。劉名揚（譯）。《給我搖擺，其餘免談》（意味がなければスイングはない），169頁。台北：時報文化。

Haruki Murakami, 2008. Min-Yang Liu (tr.). It Don’t Mean a Thing, If It Ain’t Got That Swing (意味がなければスイングはない, Complex Chinese Edition), p. 169. Taipei: China Times.

2011-11-22 0 notes

The Necessity of Hand-Made Margherita 手工製瑪格麗特披薩之必要

Last Friday a pleasant package arrived at my apartment hallway, the Chicago 2012 Michelin Restaurants Guide, and soon in the same evening I went to eat at the Spacca Napoli, who keeps staying in this time’s Bib Gourmand list.¹

上週五《芝加哥2012米其林餐廳指南》寄到家裡，很開心。所以，當天晚上我就去列名「Bib Gourmand」的餐廳「Spacca Napoli」吃東西了。²

*

I’ve never been a deep enthusiast of pizza. Since I’m in Chicago (or, in USA), it’s inevitable to eat pizza time to time. The pizza I like is actually frozen pizza, yes, the stone-like pre-pressed factory-made pie of suspiciously tomato or the like. My reason is simple: it’s simple food, ready to serve quickly, requiring minimal cooking. With stacks of frozen pizzas in my fridge, I rarely eat pizza any where else.

Chicago has its own tradition of making pizza — the super thick Deep-Dish or Stuffed pizza — as well as the crunchy thin-crust. My family tried some of those famous pizzerias in Chicago and have a couple of them as our favorite. However, we seldom visit them and more often we have this inconsistent ritual of baking frozen pizza by ourselves for Friday evening, maybe because of its ease of cooking that matches the mood for Friday.

Personally, I’ve been gradually fond of Margherita this year. It’s very thin in the crust and comes with usually no more toppings than cheese and tomato. That’s good for me to eat a whole pie without leaving annoying leftover, and also not having too much grease at one time.

In the excitement of receiving my copy of the Chicago 2012 Michelin Restaurants Guide last Friday, I found that only one pizzeria made Michelin’s lists — Spacca Napoli, and notably, it’s not famous for Chicago-style thick pizza. On the contrary, it’s namely mentioned in the Guide with its “classic Margherita” and I decided I’m going to eat there that evening on the spot.

我其實從來都不是披薩的重度愛好者。不過既然我在芝加哥（或者說，在美國），不可避免有時會吃披薩。我喜歡的披薩其實就是冷凍披薩，那種長得像石頭一樣的、預先壓製好的、工廠製作的、使用疑似或類似番茄原料的，派。原因很簡單，因為這是簡單的食物，可以很快上桌，烹調極其容易。因為冰箱裡有一整疊的冷凍披薩，我很少在外頭吃披薩。

芝加哥有自己的披薩傳統——稱為「深碟子」或「塞披薩」的超厚披薩——另外還有脆脆的薄皮披薩也是這裡的愛好品。我們家在嘗試過芝加哥的幾間傳統有名披薩屋以後，也有幾家算是家裡的偏好。不過我們很少去披薩屋裡吃，大都在家自己烤披薩，而且都是在不固定都週五晚上吃，或許是因為冷凍披薩料理簡單，適合禮拜五的氣氛吧。

個人來說，今年起，我變得開始比較喜歡瑪格麗特披薩。這是一種非常薄皮，餡料簡單到只有乳酪和番茄的披薩。因為薄，我可以一個人吃掉一個，也不會有惱人的剩菜，同時其實這樣也還不會太油膩。

上週五收到《芝加哥2012米其林餐廳指南》很興奮，一邊讀就發現芝加哥只有一家披薩屋上米其林名單，名叫「Spacca Napoli」，而且書裡指名這家店的招牌不是芝加哥式的厚披薩，而是「經典的瑪格麗特披薩」，當即決定當晚就去給他吃一下。

*

I arrived late into the night without a reservation. The waiting list is not long, though it was a full-house. The hospitable manager offered me a strong sparkling white wine immediately after putting down my name into the list. The pizzeria has the policy to ask guest who finish eating early to leave, posted noticeably at the hallway, and the manager would comfort people to leave early with complimentary finger dessert on their way out, which is a nice touch as well as the welcoming wine.

我並沒有預約，而且到得很晚。餐廳很滿，但等候名單不長。經理很熱情，把我排進名單以後就給我一杯酒精濃度很高的氣泡白酒，讓我等位子不會太無聊。店裡有規矩，寫得大大的在進門的牆上，他們會主動請東西早吃完的顧客離場，但在現場所有早離開的顧客都可以拿到一份一口甜點，當做招待。進門有酒、離店有點心，算是相當會做生意。

Seafood Salad 海鮮沙拉

Came with the oliver-oiled bread, my seafood salad consists of lightly boiled calamari and small shrimp, all fresh. It has a slightly sour sauce that make the dish tangy with or without the yellow lemon squeezed over.

Perhaps hinted by the rare existence of a wine list in a pizzeria, I came up with the idea to have wine with my pizza, which is rare to me. When asked about pairing a wine with my Margherita, the waiter pointed suggestions at a lightning speed, pretty outstanding standard Italian service, no waste of time at all. Another nice touch for the night.

The wine got pickup-up has a poetic name - “Lacryma Christi del Rosso”³, literally meaning the Red Tear of Christ, from Mastroberardino in Campania. Italy, of course, all the listed a dozen, more or less, wines are Italian. It has not too much of the punching of alcohol, while maintaining a strong deep flair of berry. Soon after, the pizza served.

On my Margherita, everything is very thin, crust, cheese and tomato paste, dressed with few pieces of whole leave basil. The thin crust is chewy, and somewhat crispy and also somewhat as soft as the New York style, though the edge crust of the pie is like French bread, unevenly thick, soft, warm and with holey crumb. The oily topping is not as greasy as it seems, and the taste of mozzarella got boosted fairly by the deep berry flavor of the wine.

搭配淋上橄欖油的麵包，我的前菜海鮮沙拉是川燙魷魚、小蝦仁，非常新鮮。不管有沒有擠黃檸檬下去，淡淡酸味的醬汁就已經讓這道冷盤很開胃了。

或許是這家店有一般披薩屋難得見到的酒單，我決定給我的披薩搭配酒。我很少這樣點。但是當我向侍者問起要搭配瑪格麗特披薩，他像閃電一樣就馬上指出適合的配酒，非常出色的典型義大利式服務，完全不浪費時間。這點我個人也很欣賞。

點的酒名字很有意境「Lacryma Christi del Rosso」⁴，直譯就叫「基督的紅色眼淚」，來自坎帕尼亞的Mastroberardino酒莊。這跟酒單上其他十幾支酒都是來自義大利。酒的酒精味不會太重，而且有種厚厚的莓果味。很快，披薩也跟著上桌了。

我點的瑪格麗特披薩非常薄，從派皮、起司、番茄糊，都很薄，上面放了幾片整片的九層塔葉。派皮蠻有嚼勁，有點脆，也有點像紐約披薩一樣軟軟的，但是披薩邊厚厚的不太規則、軟軟熱熱的，而且裡面很多孔，像是法國麵包。餡料頗油，但是不膩，酒裡厚厚的莓果味，可以多多少少陪襯莫薩瑞拉乳酪的味道。

Margherita Pizza and Lacryma Christi del Rosso 2010 Mastroberardino
瑪格麗特披薩與紅酒「Lacryma Christi del Rosso 2010 Mastroberardino」

All pizza there were cooked out of hand made dough in the semi-open kitchen with a large brick oven at the corner. People can see all the pizzas they are waiting for done manually.

The evening was concluded in a smooth tiramisu and cappuccino.

餐廳裡所有披薩都是手工現作。半開放式廚房的角落有個很大的磚砌烤爐。在等座位的時候，就可以看到點的披薩手工製作出來。

晚餐結束前我還點了甜點提拉米蘇跟卡布其諾咖啡。

Kitchen from Hallway 從入口處看廚房

*

This restaurant made the Michelin’s “Bib Gourmand” list last year and this time, a place of reasonable pricing that’s worth a visit if the so-called traditional Neapolitan pizza is of interest. No Chicago-style pizza was served, as far as I look around there, and interestingly two years in a roll none of the Chicago-style pizzerias had mad any of Michelin’s lists. Just as my friend at work Mr D said: Food in Chicago, particularly Chicago’s own thick pizza, does not fit at all what gourmet food is meant for; gourmet food is a “minimalist and artistic” thing, and food in Chicago is the opposite of that; it’s the “excessive, maximalist” example of food. So, it’s not surprising at all, perhaps, none of the Chicago-style anything can make Michelin’s lists, who got fame in the high-end gourmet world.⁵

For myself, I finally got a place where the thin crust simple pizza that I like is hand-made.

這家餐廳上次跟這次都有入選米其林的「Bib Gourmand」名單。價錢合理，如果對所謂傳統拿坡里式披薩有興趣的話，可以一試。那裡我看應該沒有供應芝加哥式的披薩（周圍沒有一桌是）。而且，很有趣的是，連續兩年芝加哥式披薩屋沒有一家上米其林名單。就像我辦公室朋友D先生說的：芝加哥食物，尤其是芝加哥的披薩，不會符合美食家的美食標準；美食是一種「極簡、藝術」的東西；芝加哥食物完全相反，是「超量、極大」的典型。所以，或許不管哪類食物，在米其林這種被認定是高級美食指南的名單裡，芝加哥的食物大概都不太可能沾上邊吧。⁶

對我自己來說，終於找到一個手工製作我喜歡的薄皮簡單披薩的地方了。

*

My dinner order, price in USD$:
我的晚餐點單，價錢為美元：

Insalata di Mare 10
(Poached calamari, cuttlefish, shrimp, celery and Kalamata olives, with lemon and olive oil)
海鮮沙拉
（川燙魷魚、烏賊、蝦仁、芹菜、Kalamata黑橄欖、檸檬、橄欖油）
Margherita 12.50
瑪格麗特披薩
Lacryma Christi del Rosso, Mastroberardino ‘10 (Campania) 7.25
紅酒「基督的紅色眼淚」，Mastroberardino酒莊，2010，坎帕尼亞
Tiramisù 4.50
甜點提拉米蘇
Cappuccino 3
卡布奇諾咖啡

The Restaurant:
餐廳資訊：

Spacca Napoli Pizzeria
http://spaccanapolipizzeria.com/
773-878-2420
1769 W. Sunnyside, Chicago, IL 60640
CTA Brown Line - Montrose
芝加哥捷運棕線「Montrose」站

See: Link for Photo Album
參見：相簿連結

The Bib Gourmand list includes the “inspector’s favorites for good value”. The criteria in Chicago is set at USD $40 for two courses plus one drink or dessert, prior all tax and tips. ↩
米其林的Bib Gourmand名單是指，「評介人喜好的價錢合理餐廳」。在芝加哥的標準則是，兩道菜加一份飲料或點心，不含稅與小費，美元$40以下。 ↩
Lacryma Christi is actually a type of famous Neapolitan wine produced on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius in Campania, Italy. See this article. ↩
「Lacryma Christi」是一種有名的義大利葡萄酒，來自義大利坎帕尼亞拿坡里地區，是用當地維蘇威火山肥沃山坡土壤上所種葡萄所釀成的，包括白酒與紅酒。參見這篇文章。 ↩
Satirically, the Michelin Guide styles itself as to “provide comprehensive choices to accommodate your comfort, tastes, and budget”. Really?! Comprehensive choices of tastes?! How are the local favorites listed? ↩
在這裡挖苦米其林指南一下。書裡說是要「為您的舒適、品味、預算，提供完整充足的選擇」。這裡面真的有不同品味的完整選擇嗎？！那在地的熱門愛好地點又是怎麼被評介的？ ↩

2011-11-21 0 notes

Brewing a proper cup of coffee is a lot harder than uncorking a bottle of wine and a lot easier than cooking dinner.
煮杯剛好的咖啡，比開葡萄酒難很多，但比作晚餐簡單很多。

—

Kelefa Sanneh on coffee. The New Yorker. 2011.11.18.

http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/culture/2011/11/kelefa-sannehs-perfect-cup-of-coffee.html#ixzz1eNYjht6F

http://nyr.kr/rW4Hco

2011-11-16 0 notes

Protect The Internet 保護網路自由使用權

If you Americans do nothing, soon all the internet users in USA will lose the access to a lot, if not all, general services of today’s social networking service (Facebook, Twitter, etc) and even search engine (Google, etc) or portal website (Yahoo!, etc) or internet shopping (eBay, Amazon, etc). Any of the international websites can be blocked in its entirety from USA viewers just by a corporate layer’s letter. To keep your internet yours, please go and contest these bills.
如果你們美國人不作任何動作的話，很快美國所有網路使用者上網時就無法使用許多（甚至是全部）重要的網路功能了。所有社群網路網站（Facebook、Twitter等），甚至搜尋引擎（如Google）、入口網站（Yahoo!等）、購物網站（eBay、Amazon等）都會需要被迫關掉。任何外國網站都可以被隔離在美國使用者視線之外，只要大企業發一封律師信就成了。如果想要維護你使用網路的權利，請趕快去抗議這兩個法案。

2011-11-15 10 notes

The Street can, thus, be conceived as a space where new forms of the social and the political can be made, rather than a space for enacting ritualized routines. With some conceptual stretching, we might say that politically, “street and square” are marked differently from “boulevard and piazza”: the first signals action and the second, rituals.
因此，街道可以被視為是新形式的政治與社會形式發生之所在，而不是一個只讓儀式化慣例事物重複上演的舞台。如果在概念上延伸一下，我們或許可以說，政治上而言，「街道與廣場」與「花園大道與古典廣場」所標誌的意義是不同的：前者表示行動，後者則表示儀式。

— Saskia Sassen. On political agency of urban space in global cities, in an interview with Claudia Faraone in IUAV (University Institute of Architecture in Venice). “The challenges of our time in the city.” Domus. 2011.11.15.

Source: domusweb.it